Big Bend National Park

1 December

As we left the campsite this morning, we filled up with diesel.  As we navigate West Texas, we are adopting the RV tip “live off the top” of our fuel and water tanks, meaning fill up sooner than normal in case you have to stretch between fill-ups.

The drive west on US 90 paralleled I-10, and the scenery was typical West Texas.  Not much to see, and the few small towns we went through were small.  And as seems typical for my previous trips through West Texas, we drove into 20-30mph headwinds for several hours.  Sprinty held his own, but fuel mileage was less than 15mpg.

As we drove west, we thought of what we were doing 5 years ago, a time period when I doubt we could have imagined we would have been doing this.  We then realized that today was the first Saturday in December, and 5 years ago, we would have been at Deep Creek Lake preparing for the yacht club annual meeting.  And getting ready for Darrell to work at Fort Belvoir the following week.  Today was the first ‘first Saturday in December’ that we were not at Deep Creek Lake since 2004 when Darrell was still in the Navy and we had not resumed sailboat racing.

When we got to Marathon, TX, we took advantage of one of the two gas stations to top off our diesel.  Gas prices were much higher - because of the remote location and lack of choices.  Unleaded gas has was $3.34, and diesel was $3.69.

Turning south, we enjoyed a cross wind, and Sprinty’s fuel mileage improved.  The Panther Junction Visitor Center is 70 miles south of Marathon, and 30 miles into the park from the east entrance station.  Our Senior Pass saved us the $30 entrance fee. 

At the entrance station, they had a sign indicating campsite availability - many of the three national park campgrounds in Big Bend NP's campsites are first-come, first-served.  There were 27 available at Rio Grande Village, and 6 at Chisos Basin.  By the time we got to the Visitor Center 45 minutes later, the Chisos Basis sites were full.

We headed to Rio Grande Village campground to secure a campsite.  We had a number of choices, and picked a nice level (most were pretty level) site in the no generator section.  With the Senior Pass, the fee was $7 - no hookups, but there are flush toilets and fresh water spigots nearby.

Once we had a place for the night arranged, we visited the Rio Grande Village Visitor Center, then headed for the Hot Springs.  The access road was “improved”, meaning it was a gravel road that was maintained.  Sprinty’s practice along the levee in Louisiana a few weeks ago came in handy.  About half way down the access road, the sign said no RVs, trailers or vehicles with dualies.  We had inquired at the Visitor Center - the no dualies restriction was because the roads were very narrow, winding gravel with drop-offs.  

We parked at the turn around area and walked the rest of the way,  it was narrow enough that in several places, we would have had quite the challenge had we encountered a car.  We were glad not to coax Sprinty down the narrow roads.

We walked along the Rio Grande River to the hot springs.  Several people were in the hot springs, which seemed to be about 95 degrees.  We did not bring bathing suits, so we just watched.  One thing that struck us was how narrow the Rio Grande River is in this area.  You could just about through a stone into Mexico from the hot springs.

Along the way, we encountered an illegal souvenir stand.  Apparently, Mexican Nationals put out hand-made trinkets with an honor system payment.  The National Park info stated it was illegal to purchase and that items purchased illegally would be considered contraband and seized by officers when encountered.

We then drove to the Boquillas Canyon Overlook.

After getting back to the campground, we checked out the full hook-up campground.  It has 30 campsites, but as the reviews indicated, it was more like a parking lot with hook-ups, and not a lot of space between parking spots.  We appreciated the campground review comment that said they would have preferred to be the no hookup campground which were more spaced out.  We appreciated that Sprinty is well equipped for dry camping.  $7 dry camping instead of $35 for the parking lot site.

Just before sunset, we hiked the nature trail that started at the campground.  It crossed a wildlife viewing boardwalk (where we saw some muskrats feeding on the way back), and gradually climbed a hillside which offered panoramic views of the Rio Grande River, Sierra del Carmine’s and Crown Mountain.  It was suggested as an excellent sunset vista, so we hung out (along with many others) to watch the sunset.